If you follow me on Instagram and Twitter you probably noticed that I recently spent a week on one of the Mediterranean’s most prolific islands: Mallorca! Known for it’s British and German package tourists and larger louts I’m happy to report that it’s perfectly possible to avoid that side completely.
I wasn’t sure how going on holiday with extended family where the age ranges between one and 80 would work out but magically everybody was happy and we had no major dramas for a whole week – apart from losing little Usain Bolt Leo at the airport for what felt like a lifetime but was probably more like three minutes. Why can’t we microchip toddlers and track them on our smart phone?
Our apartment in Ciudad Jardin, a typically Spanish suburb of Palma, was perfectly located and the kids got lots of play time on the beach and various playgrounds. Grandparents got plenty of time to play with the kids and explore the town and thanks to said grandparents we had in-built baby sitters and managed to have seven date nights in a row!
Usually I’m not one for going back to the same place time and again but this was our third time in Palma and it still felt as exciting, cosmopolitan but totally authentically Spanish as the first time. There are of course the hordes of sun-burnt tourists in socks and sandals in the summer traipsing round the Old Town and Cathedral but you don’t need to venture far from the centre to find authentic tapas bars where they count up your pinxtos – skewers holding together your pincho or tapa – at the end of the night to see how much you’ve had to eat. One such place is L’Ambigú Pinxtos right in the Old Town tucked away at the back of Santa Eulalia, where we had the most amazing tapas (or pinxtos) sitting next to some locals.
Another fabulously authentic area is Santa Catalina, just a 15 minute walk west of the Old Town. It has a hip student vibe with a dense mix of bars and restaurants and eclectic shops. If you’re in the area make sure to pop into bconnected concept store for some quirky finds. One of the main streets for eating is Carrer de la Fabrica but to be honest the whole area oozes with little places that attract a mainly local crowd. We wondered around and stumbled upon ‘Simple’, a small restaurant on the ground floor of what looked like a recently restored town house. Totally gutted ‘Simple’ has a clean white minimalist look without feeling clinical and the added benefit of a small courtyard at the back, beautifully lit at night and perfect for some chillaxing Spanish style. Unfortunately I didn’t take a card but it’s next to the famous Bar Cuba on Carrer de Sant Magi.
Palma is certainly no hidden gem anymore thanks to it’s boutique hotels, sophisticated shopping and high-quality eateries. The main attraction still being the Cathedral which took 300 years to build and of course the beautiful Old Town. But for me the city still has lots more to explore and I’m looking forward to my next visit, be it with kids, a deux or with my girls – Palma is fab anywhich way.
MY TOTALLY RANDOM LIST OF PLACES I CAME ACROSS OR EXPERIENCED
01. | View from Ciudad Jardin towards Palma Cathedral.
02. | Fundacio la Caixa, completed in 1903, this was the city’s first luxury hotel but has since been restored and now houses exhibition spaces, a design book shop and a cafe with floor to ceiling windows, perfect for people watching. Placa de Weyler.
03. | L’Ambigú Pinxtos, low-key tapas in the beautiful Old Town. Carrer de Sa Carnisseria.
04. | Placa Major, stunning but best to visit at night time if you’re allergic to tourists.
05. | Bar Restaurant Nicolas, fabulous watering hole, Plaça del Mercat.
06. | Yes, the beach really was that empty.
07. | Born 8, elegant and stylish all-day cafeteria on Passeo del Borne.
08. | Local bakery in Ciudad Jardin.
09. | Local ice-cream palour in Ciudad Jardin.
10. | One of many awesome Swedish style public playgrounds.
11. | THE best fresh fish restaurant in Ciudad Jardin.
12. | Gothic masterpiece Santa Eulàlia, Placa Santa Eulàlia.
13. | Hotel Cort, super central, hip and smart boutique hotel.
14. | One of many branches of upmarket coffee shop chain Cappuccino. This is definitely one of the best for location, setting and people watching. Cappuccino Palau March, Carrer Conquistador.
GELATERIA ITALIANA | No photo but THE best Italian ice-cream I’ve had to date and worth a special mention. Opposite Palma’s theatre, near the Placa Major.
Enjoy and I hope you’re inspired!
More information | We booked our apartment through MallorcApart run by Mia and Adam, a Swedish/British couple who have got lots of nice properties in and around Palma on their books. They are absolutely lovely, extremely helpful and easy to deal with and I cannot recommend them enough. Drop them an email if you’re interested.
Contact | apartment[at]facilnet.es